Pros
Great WLB, people are kind and care about each other. There's a strong culture of calling out wrongs, even at the IC level, whether or not it's actually addressed. Benefits are good, not great.
Cons
Lots of burnout and unclear/changing expectations. Middle and upper management don't feel like they are in tune with what's going on at the IC level. Teams are built around GMS driving goals rather than product spaces, which means everyone can and does develop features/code across the site. There are no lines of ownership or consistency in coding patterns, and also an alarming lack of area experts since "everyone owns everything". A lot of decisions seem to be made from the top without great communication or input from people at the bottom. I've felt a lot of resistance to adding process or setting clear expectations due to lack of time or "that's not how Etsy works"