Pros
The mission is second to none, and people are motivated by the mission. Individual colleagues in the department are talented and passionate about their work. I've heard that there have been some leadership changes, including some of the more toxic directors leaving, and the culture is getting better. Equitable opportunities will be dependent on who your supervisor is and how fair they are to the entire team.
Cons
At least 30 people have left the department within the past three years, which is more than half of the department. Most of this is not through natural career growth attrition but rather people leaving due to an unhealthy, toxic culture originating at the supervisory level, rife with some directors energized by gossip and gaslighting not only each other's direct reports but also each other as leadership peers. There have been three different CMOs hired in the past four years. The department is very top heavy with administration. I share this because I went into the role very naively and it is something I regret.